I always love to get presents and I just got a new package from the fine gentlemen at ALL OR NIL, a tony streetwear brand fresh and direct out of San Francisco.  Straight from the horse’s mouth, their designs are inspired by old school Americana, graphic minimalism, and overlooked 1990s industrial references. The boys are performing quite correctly on an independent level and this shirt garnered a lot of inquiries at AGENDA tradeshow in NYC this week. I’m personally honored to have been contacted by this brand, so be sure to check out their website and their tumblr.  
ALL OR NIL

I always love to get presents and I just got a new package from the fine gentlemen at ALL OR NIL, a tony streetwear brand fresh and direct out of San Francisco.  Straight from the horse’s mouth, their designs are inspired by old school Americana, graphic minimalism, and overlooked 1990s industrial references. The boys are performing quite correctly on an independent level and this shirt garnered a lot of inquiries at AGENDA tradeshow in NYC this week. I’m personally honored to have been contacted by this brand, so be sure to check out their website and their tumblr.  

ALL OR NIL



Worldly Possessions - Two of Three - Apparel & Primary Reserve
Few places that I’ve lived have as turbulent, by-the-minute weather patterns as San Francisco. I don’t believe that the weather there changes as often as is generally assumed - it’s that each neighborhood has its own personalized microclimate and since the city is small and the terrain is highly varied, you often have to travel through a handful of boroughs to get where you’re going.  Also, few people drive so you’re often outside while in transit.
One thing you learn pretty quickly in SF is to lightly layer your clothing. This enables you to go in and out of everywhere and minimizes the need to carry a bag.  Cycling and skateboarding through the city can cause you to overheat quickly, and the buses are usually busy so it’s easy to sweat even when taking MUNI.  New Yorkers think that San Franciscans dress sloppily, and they’re correct - but by that comparison everybody on earth dresses like a bum, even when compared to the bums. Be that as it may, people generally fail to realize that the climate in NYC is either hot and bright or cold and grim (humidity is most likely the culprit, though I’m no meteorologist) and you usually have a strong heads-up as to which one it’s going to be that day. SF can’t afford to really care about what’s cool in NYC (when it comes to apparel and other aspects of the day-to-day), as the lifestyles and general interests in either city differ as greatly as their respective locations on the American continent.
These clothes, which comprise one half of my entire wardrobe, are a mixture of cool and boring, technical and fashionable, and it’s all carefully curated to take me in and out of everything I do on a regular basis. Everything you see here was packed into my primary suitcase, a Poler “duffaluffagus,” which I’ll comment on in a later post.
•••
• cashmere scarf - from a street vendor in SOHO, NYC.  maybe 3 for $20? makes a great gift, doubles as a light pillow and you can use it to wrap your head and shut out the light on an airplane.
• Penfield hood - from DQM in the East Village, NYC. attaches to the Penfield coat (separate post). black-on-black tonal fern print with an ultramarine blue liner. the coat is light and warm, and down is crucial for winter.  since the hood is removable, it can be used as a personal dark-room/pillow on long flights.
• Anchor beanie - from Welcome Stranger in Hayes Valley, SF. I got a red one to keep me safe when I have to go to really bad neighborhoods.  It works.  Cool new store in a cool neighborhood.
• LRG summerweight jacket - from Zumiez, Santa Rosa, CA. has a huge multicolored embroidery on the back, of a seagull flying over an island sunset with the text “Summer is Mad Gully” yessir.  Also, this thing is falling apart. LRG is the only streetwear brand I would admit to liking, and I really like it.
• APC cardigan - from American Rag, SF. superthin, maybe cashmere? I got both APC pieces for 75% off one fine summer day.  good looks!  I was sad to see that store close.
• APC s/s button-up - see above. it’s cut a little short for my taste but it’s pretty fresh.
• Neiman Marcus socks - purple is by far my favorite color, and you can’t beat cashmere for comfort and class. the 4 C’s.
• adidas hoodie - from the Westfield Mall, SF. this is one-half of my pajamas, but it’s a multi-faceted piece.
• Banana Republic l/s t-shirt - I took a few of these from my friend’s closet while he was out of town in Australia.  thanks, dude!  I really like BR.
• BDG t-shirt - I honestly try my best to not support Urban Outfitters, as it’s clearly overpriced and I’ve seen many examples of blatant plagiarism, but this shirt has multicolored speckles on the heather grey - almost like there was confetti in the air at the mill.  I had to.
• uniqlo l/s button-up (2) - from SOHO, NYC. a great store, through and through.  multi-colored basics in smart cuts, good prices, and always a shitload of sizes. the line for both the fitting room and checkout can be painful though.
• John Varvatos hoodie - from the Hard Rock Hotel, Las Vegas. summerweight thermal, faded & marbled purple fabric treatment. I got this right before a Carlos Santana concert, because the theater was too cold for just a t-shirt.  For the record, I used to hate this company because I was treated badly when I went into their store in South Coast Plaza (Santa Ana, CA) with a friend of mine a few years ago.  I had just started my degree in fashion design and I was showing him some different high-end shops I’d learned about, just for fun.  The employees in the store watched us like hawks and followed us around the tiny boutique, assumably because they thought we were gonna rob them in broad daylight. We should have, but it’s not worth it.  Questions went unanswered, attitude was given. I’ve been treated similarly (but worse) in the Louis Vuitton store in Union Square, SF - I would love to steal from there, especially one of those sweet-ass monogrammed trunks directly inside the door on the left.  That would be worth it, but if I had to purchase one I’d go around the corner to Goyard. Vote with your dollars.
• HUF t-shirt - from HUF, SF.  RIP.  the only graphic t-shirt I own, and it’s my honor to wear it.
• Craft l/s baselayer - from NYC Velo, East Village, NYC.  purchased for cycling in the dead of winter, it’s not the most stylish piece but technically advantageous like no other.
• Nike running tights - from a thrift store in St. Helena, CA. I put them under jeans or khakis, tuck them into my socks, and they keep my balls toasty in even the worst winter weather.
• Sun Diego tank top (2) - from Solana Beach, CA. cool little shop in a cool little beach town. 
• Polo t-shirts - available at Macy’s.  in my opinion, the classiest & cheapest way to avoid graphic t-shirts and simultaneously avoid the shitty see-through quality of every other plain-white-tee I’ve ever bought.  they look just as great fresh out of the packaging as they do covered in asphalt stains & bloody marks, and it’s hard to fuck with Polo.  they only come in black and white.  what more do you need?
• Nike SB stretch khakis - from Non-Factory skateshop, downtown LA.  Great shop, cool owner! he even had a copy of a three-year-old out of print TWS mag I’d been hunting down. These are the best skate pants I’ve ever owned, and I fully intend to knock off the fit for my own brand one day.
• Alfani knit boxers
• Alfani woven boxers
• brand new socks - these are Jerzees (from Target) and they’re shitty.  Fortunately just about anybody can afford to replace these regularly (every few months).  I much prefer Gold Toe socks.  I used to steal those from Macy’s, I had a foolproof method but I don’t care to do it anymore. nice things are nice.
• Iron Heart jeans - from Self-Edge in the Mission, SF.  SE X IH 03. I bought these as a graduation gift to myself, spent a month or two breaking them in, and then they were stolen from my workplace, along with my backpack and some of my other most favorite clothes.  My workplace reimbursed me for half of the bag’s contents, so I took the check back to Self Edge and got another pair of these (that’s all the check covered).  That was over 3 years ago and I’ve never once regretted it.  Great shops in SF & NYC, and they can help with high-quality repairs.
•••

Worldly Possessions - Two of Three - Apparel & Primary Reserve

Few places that I’ve lived have as turbulent, by-the-minute weather patterns as San Francisco. I don’t believe that the weather there changes as often as is generally assumed - it’s that each neighborhood has its own personalized microclimate and since the city is small and the terrain is highly varied, you often have to travel through a handful of boroughs to get where you’re going.  Also, few people drive so you’re often outside while in transit.

One thing you learn pretty quickly in SF is to lightly layer your clothing. This enables you to go in and out of everywhere and minimizes the need to carry a bag.  Cycling and skateboarding through the city can cause you to overheat quickly, and the buses are usually busy so it’s easy to sweat even when taking MUNI.  New Yorkers think that San Franciscans dress sloppily, and they’re correct - but by that comparison everybody on earth dresses like a bum, even when compared to the bums. Be that as it may, people generally fail to realize that the climate in NYC is either hot and bright or cold and grim (humidity is most likely the culprit, though I’m no meteorologist) and you usually have a strong heads-up as to which one it’s going to be that day. SF can’t afford to really care about what’s cool in NYC (when it comes to apparel and other aspects of the day-to-day), as the lifestyles and general interests in either city differ as greatly as their respective locations on the American continent.

These clothes, which comprise one half of my entire wardrobe, are a mixture of cool and boring, technical and fashionable, and it’s all carefully curated to take me in and out of everything I do on a regular basis. Everything you see here was packed into my primary suitcase, a Poler “duffaluffagus,” which I’ll comment on in a later post.

•••

• cashmere scarf - from a street vendor in SOHO, NYC.  maybe 3 for $20? makes a great gift, doubles as a light pillow and you can use it to wrap your head and shut out the light on an airplane.

• Penfield hood - from DQM in the East Village, NYC. attaches to the Penfield coat (separate post). black-on-black tonal fern print with an ultramarine blue liner. the coat is light and warm, and down is crucial for winter.  since the hood is removable, it can be used as a personal dark-room/pillow on long flights.

• Anchor beanie - from Welcome Stranger in Hayes Valley, SF. I got a red one to keep me safe when I have to go to really bad neighborhoods.  It works.  Cool new store in a cool neighborhood.

• LRG summerweight jacket - from Zumiez, Santa Rosa, CA. has a huge multicolored embroidery on the back, of a seagull flying over an island sunset with the text “Summer is Mad Gully” yessir.  Also, this thing is falling apart. LRG is the only streetwear brand I would admit to liking, and I really like it.

• APC cardigan - from American Rag, SF. superthin, maybe cashmere? I got both APC pieces for 75% off one fine summer day.  good looks!  I was sad to see that store close.

• APC s/s button-up - see above. it’s cut a little short for my taste but it’s pretty fresh.

• Neiman Marcus socks - purple is by far my favorite color, and you can’t beat cashmere for comfort and class. the 4 C’s.

• adidas hoodie - from the Westfield Mall, SF. this is one-half of my pajamas, but it’s a multi-faceted piece.

• Banana Republic l/s t-shirt - I took a few of these from my friend’s closet while he was out of town in Australia.  thanks, dude!  I really like BR.

• BDG t-shirt - I honestly try my best to not support Urban Outfitters, as it’s clearly overpriced and I’ve seen many examples of blatant plagiarism, but this shirt has multicolored speckles on the heather grey - almost like there was confetti in the air at the mill.  I had to.

• uniqlo l/s button-up (2) - from SOHO, NYC. a great store, through and through.  multi-colored basics in smart cuts, good prices, and always a shitload of sizes. the line for both the fitting room and checkout can be painful though.

• John Varvatos hoodie - from the Hard Rock Hotel, Las Vegas. summerweight thermal, faded & marbled purple fabric treatment. I got this right before a Carlos Santana concert, because the theater was too cold for just a t-shirt.  For the record, I used to hate this company because I was treated badly when I went into their store in South Coast Plaza (Santa Ana, CA) with a friend of mine a few years ago.  I had just started my degree in fashion design and I was showing him some different high-end shops I’d learned about, just for fun.  The employees in the store watched us like hawks and followed us around the tiny boutique, assumably because they thought we were gonna rob them in broad daylight. We should have, but it’s not worth it.  Questions went unanswered, attitude was given. I’ve been treated similarly (but worse) in the Louis Vuitton store in Union Square, SF - I would love to steal from there, especially one of those sweet-ass monogrammed trunks directly inside the door on the left.  That would be worth it, but if I had to purchase one I’d go around the corner to Goyard. Vote with your dollars.

• HUF t-shirt - from HUF, SF.  RIP.  the only graphic t-shirt I own, and it’s my honor to wear it.

• Craft l/s baselayer - from NYC Velo, East Village, NYC.  purchased for cycling in the dead of winter, it’s not the most stylish piece but technically advantageous like no other.

• Nike running tights - from a thrift store in St. Helena, CA. I put them under jeans or khakis, tuck them into my socks, and they keep my balls toasty in even the worst winter weather.

• Sun Diego tank top (2) - from Solana Beach, CA. cool little shop in a cool little beach town. 

• Polo t-shirts - available at Macy’s.  in my opinion, the classiest & cheapest way to avoid graphic t-shirts and simultaneously avoid the shitty see-through quality of every other plain-white-tee I’ve ever bought.  they look just as great fresh out of the packaging as they do covered in asphalt stains & bloody marks, and it’s hard to fuck with Polo.  they only come in black and white.  what more do you need?

• Nike SB stretch khakis - from Non-Factory skateshop, downtown LA.  Great shop, cool owner! he even had a copy of a three-year-old out of print TWS mag I’d been hunting down. These are the best skate pants I’ve ever owned, and I fully intend to knock off the fit for my own brand one day.

• Alfani knit boxers

• Alfani woven boxers

• brand new socks - these are Jerzees (from Target) and they’re shitty.  Fortunately just about anybody can afford to replace these regularly (every few months).  I much prefer Gold Toe socks.  I used to steal those from Macy’s, I had a foolproof method but I don’t care to do it anymore. nice things are nice.

• Iron Heart jeans - from Self-Edge in the Mission, SF.  SE X IH 03. I bought these as a graduation gift to myself, spent a month or two breaking them in, and then they were stolen from my workplace, along with my backpack and some of my other most favorite clothes.  My workplace reimbursed me for half of the bag’s contents, so I took the check back to Self Edge and got another pair of these (that’s all the check covered).  That was over 3 years ago and I’ve never once regretted it.  Great shops in SF & NYC, and they can help with high-quality repairs.

•••